Happy Birthday to Me!

We leave Luxor Temple, and my head is full of the mystery I’ve just experienced. El-Luxor hotel is just minutes away, but we seem to be traveling a circuitous route through the center of town. No matter, it’s pretty and without the Cairo mayhem the ride is enjoyable.

Sasa stops the van in front of a store and Siad apologizes but must run an errand. No problem, Aurel and I are giddy and trying to converse with Sasa. We seem to be an unending source of amusement to the Egyptians whenever we speak. Siad returns with what looks like a take-out bag and I’m thinking -- oh lord, this poor guy never ate dinner!

We drive another block and stop again; Siad again apologizes but this time returns quickly.

When the van stops a third time and there are no stores around, my brain clicks into high alert.

Just then Siad says, "I feel terrible....You mentioned earlier today that it was your birthday, but I forgot, so Sasa and I want to wish you a Happy Birthday now." He reaches into his bags and produces four birthday cakes, plastic forks and Snow White cake plates, and roses for Aurel and me. They sing Happy Birthday to me in English and Arabic, and we are laughing ourselves to tears. I can’t believe I am having a Van Birthday Party in Luxor, Egypt.

It’s a quick ride back to the hotel and though it’s late, I know sleep will elude me. A beer from the hotel bar might help, so Aurel and I each bring one to the room, which is.....brrrrrr freezing! I neglected to close the balcony doors earlier and the temperature inside is the same as out, low 40's. But the view is spectacular, so we cocoon ourselves in extra blankets wrap scarves around our heads, don our gloves and sit on the balcony. With my beer poking out of an opening in the blanket, I’m quite a fashion statement.

The scene before us is remarkable. In the foreground, a beautiful palm tree sits on the bank of the Nile. Across the river lies the Valley of the Kings, resting place of the great Pharaohs, softly and peacefully lit at night. And in the sky a perfect crescent moon with its accompanying bright star. We chat for the longest time, as girls will do, about life in general and about our lives. The moon dips closer and closer to the palm tree and horizon, and by the time we go to bed I realize that we’ve come to Egypt as friends but will leave as sisters.

Luxor by Night

A cat nap is a little miracle, and after an hour’s sleep Aurel and I are again ready for fun. Outside the hotel our guide, Said, and driver Sasa await, but we need a hearty meal before we continue. No problem. (nothing we request is a problem) They leave us at Restaurant Sofra, hidden on a small side street, and promise to return in 2 hours.

Sofra’s foyer is small and unassuming, but upstairs we enter a terraced dining area that is of a bygone era with dark, carved furniture, copper lanterns and low, round brass tables. We’re seated near the open, curtained windows and for a while are the only patrons. Strains of Om Kalsoum waft over us and soon the diva sings alongside the muezzins’ calls to prayer. For the second time since arriving in Luxor I feel peaceful and happy.

The menu is extensive, featuring traditional Egyptian fare. We finally decide on a large sample mezza of four cold/four hot appetizers. Everything looks so good (or we’re so hungry) that we each also order a meal to follow. A Kanina and Aurel feast! No alcohol is served here, instead, we order ‘chai bil nana,’ tea with mint, and fresh squeezed juice. The night air is cool and soon, copper charcoal braziers are set up throughout the room to dispel the evening chill.

I peek through the curtains to the outside world when I notice, I kid you not, chickens living on the third floor of the building across the street. The building seems to be occupied because the windows on the lower floors have louvered shutters. But upstairs roost the chickens, lounging in empty windows and watching the world go by. One fluffy white guy with a huge plumed tail seems to be the head honcho. I dub it the Chicken Hotel and hope I’m not having one of these fellows for dinner. ;-) The incongruity of it all sets us laughing, a daily occurrence since we’ve arrived in Egypt.

Time passes too quickly, and we’re in some sort of food reverie, when Said pays a visit...it’s time to move along. The Temple of Luxor is open during the evening and that is our destination.

Earlier in the day Said mentioned several times that Luxor Temple at night was very special. I have visions of a touristy, Disney-esque light show so am not particularly enthused. The reality is completely different, though, and hard to capture in words.

The Avenue of Sphinxes leads to the temple in two long rows and at one time connected Luxor
and Karnak. Like Karnak’s ram-headed sphinxes, these also have sweet faces but they are human. When lit at night, they come to life as if they have a secret they might be inclined to divulge. The temple itself, with its two massive Ramsesses statues guarding the gate, is like a scene from an Indiana Jones movie. These huge statues, so impressive during the day, seem otherworldly now, as though the special lighting allows the pharaoh’s personality to emerge. A nearby sculpture, the head of Ramses I think, is ground-level and benignly gazes at me.

Our guide, Said, has an amazing capacity to succinctly convey a large amount of information then step back as we absorb the glory of what we are seeing. He encourages us to explore the temple on our own. Once inside, we wander through monolithic columns and statues and I stop taking photos. I simply cannot capture the majesty of what I am experiencing. Aurel and I also stop
speaking. There seem no appropriate words other than ‘O my god!’ or ‘Do you believe this?’

After a while Said collects us and it’s time to move on. Neither Aurel nor I realize he and Sasa have a big surprise for us.

When Up is Down...the Land of the Pharaohs

Our first stop of the day is the Temple of Karnak where our guide, Said, formally introduces himself as an Egyptologist. For two days he will be our eyes into both the ancient Pharonic world and the modern city of Luxor.

He begins by giving us the short version of ancient history and we immediately warm to his style. We’re not talking 200 years of American history here! Facts can be overwhelming when you’re summarizing 5,000 years, but Said captures it succinctly and makes it fascinating. I never feel as though he just reciting a generic ‘guide to Egypt’ speech.

Sadly, I’m sure he thinks Aurel and I a bit doltish. My eyes are glazing over from lack of sleep and we’re embarrassed to ask him to repeat information we were told just a few minutes ago. He tells of King Menes, the Scorpion King (and I thought it was just a kids movie), who united Upper and Lower Egypt in 3100 BC and mention that Luxor is in Upper Egypt. I'm confused...’So, we are North of Cairo? I ask...No, Luxor is South...Didn’t you just say Luxor is Upper Egypt?...Yes.’ As it turns out, ancient Egypt was defined by height not location. Upper Egypt is a plateau but in the South, whereas northern Egypt, the lowlands, is called Lower Egypt. Oh, and the Nile flows south to north.
Open any travel guide and Luxor is described as ‘the world’s largest open air museum’. We’re about to find out why.

As we drawer closer to the Temple of Karnak, Said tells us it spans 60 acres. First constructed around 1700BC, it was enlarged by 30 pharaoh’s during their reigns. Thankfully for us, only a few acres are open to the public.

We approach through an amazing array of ram-headed sphinx, lined up one after another in regal grandeur, their faces the benign splendor of royal elegance. I can only imagine the swelling emotions of the nobility as they prepared to enter this religious temple thousands of years ago.

Once inside, we are dwarfed. Forty-foot high walls are completely covered in hieroglyphics and pictographs, the artwork rivaling any contemporary museum experience. In the Great Hypostyle Hall we wander through massive columns, more than a hundred in all commissioned by the masterful Queen Hatchupset, that leave us speechless. Huge statues of ancient rulers some carved from a single limestone piece, grace the interior, while hundred foot tall obelisks carved top to bottom still stand, a testament to engineering and art.

I’m trying to imagine the pageantry that would have taken place here, but honestly, am have difficulty grasping it all. Try this link to experience it yourself http://www.panoramas.dk/fullscreen7/f22-karnak-egypt.html

Exiting the temple, Said looks at our tired eyes and suggests that rather than going to our next destination, the Temple at Luxor, we check into our hotel and have an hour’s sleep. He graciously offers to drop us at the hotel then pick us up in two hours to continue our adventure. We gratefully accept. The beds at El-Luxor Hotel look positively inviting and sleep beckons.

Lush, Lovely Luxor

I’ve just closed my eyes, or so it seems, when the wake-up call jars me into consciousness. 90 minutes sleep passes pretty quickly. Bags were packed last night and after a refreshing shower it’s off to the airport for our flight to Luxor. Surprise of surprises at 6:30 a.m. there’s no Cairo traffic!

Once in the airport I’m a bit panicky. We’re completely on our own for the first time with no guide to lead us along like a willing school children. Life has been so hectic that I’m not really sure I’ve taken the correct documents, and the airport is a bit confusing. We find our way, though, and soon we’re in flight and sound asleep.

The approach to Luxor, as was the approach to Cairo is quite amazing. The desert below, a peaceful beige that stretches forever, is suddenly interrupted by a swath of green. The color doesn’t appear a bit at a time, like you’d expect. Desert simply ends and fertile valley begins.

Luxor, the ancient capital city known as Thebes, is BEAUTIFUL and quite literally, a breath of fresh air after being in Cairo. Palm trees stretch toward a clear, clean, blue sky and the sun shines brightly. Again and again I inhale deep gulps of refreshingly clean air. Within minutes I’m relaxed, rejuvenated and just plain happy. For the first time in Egypt I feel as though I’m on vacation.

Aurel and I are ravenously hungry and need some food. Quickly. I had only picked at my dinner the previous evening (was that just 12 hours ago??) and I don’t think Aurel ate at all. After puzzling for a moment our driver asks if we like Shwarma. We love shwarma, even for breakfast, and we’re whisked off to the Snak Time Fast Food Café.

I’m giggling as soon as I see Snak Time and have visions of eating my first Luxor meal at an Egyptian McDonalds. Instead, the place is immaculately clean and after ordering we’re directed to the fourth floor where we take a balcony table overlooking Luxor’s main street and the ancient Temple at Luxor. For the longest time we sit and try to absorb the beauty and significance of what we’re seeing.

Luxor, quaint, clean and orderly, reminds me a bit of an Arabian Burmuda. Festive horse-drawn carriages clip-clop down a main street that is so quiet the hoof beats echo. Across from us men in traditional garb of galabaya and turbans and women in hijab socialize or relax in a lovely park. One fellow so attired is propped against a palm tree, resting on the grass and chatting on his cell phone. Then, out of the silence, the hauntingly beautiful call to prayer. Juxtapositions abound.

Beyond the park, walking distance from the main street, lies the grand Temple of Luxor, built 3,500 years ago. To our right is the modern town of Luxor. Throughout our trip I’m surprised to see ancient and modern existing side by side.

Our guide for the weekend, Said, appears and introduces himself... and we’re off for our next adventure.

Let the Birthday Season Begin! Performing in Cairo

Aurel and I have just three hours to prepare for our show…and it takes me at least one hour to apply my stage make-up. In addition, Aurel has an appointment with Randa’s personal hairdresser! Instead of hustling off to our rooms like we should, we shop.

There are four vendors at the Course and I’ve been eyeing their costumes all week, keeping student requests in mind. Aurel, who makes any costume look spectacular, graciously offers to model the ones I‘m most interested in. By the time we finish, I’ve chosen six and will meet with the designer when we return from Luxor.

By 8:00 we’re in the ballroom, and you can feel the excitement as the stege lights come alive and seven musicians on stage tune their instruments. We dancers are all jittery and encouraging one another. There will be three shows this evening, starting with the last heat of the dance competition which features seven dancers. Each dancer has submitted a list of ten songs, and the band will choose one for her performance. They are all accomplished, beautiful dancers, but I can’t imagine the stress they are feeling!

I’m leading off the second show, which I’m really grateful for. Once I’ve danced I can relax and enjoy the rest of the evening. Aurel is in the third show and won’t dance till about 11:00.
The festivities begin with a drawing for a costume created by the wonderfully innovative and creative designer, Hisham Ozaki, whose costumes remind me of David Bowie meets Cairo. They’re really fanciful and new age. All of us who are brave enough to perform have been entered into the raffle. Suspense builds as Sara spells out the winner’s name…K…A….I can’t believe my name has been called and just sit in my seat till it’s called again! After much applause, hugs from Randa and Hisham, and picture taking I return to my seat thinking…my birthday is in just a few hours, let the party begin!!

The dance competition is amazing, and I am in awe of these beautifully talented dancers. In no time, it’s my turn my turn to dance, and as always, when the music begins my jitters evaporate. The music is GREAT and when I hit the stage I’m immediately enjoying myself. I can’t believe I’m in Cairo dancing live with an Egyptian band; it’s like a dream. The audience is very supportive, though I can feel not see them -- the stage lights are blinding.

The band is playing one of my favorites, Sawwah. I have three versions on my iPod so am prepared for each but I’m expecting the Sohair Zaki version (old Egyptian) with a solo vocal piece midway through the song. I’m concerned about the vocals because Egyptian ‘style’ doesn’t really use the beautiful snaky arm movements I favor. But I’ve planned some Randa moves before the solo, so I hope to appear sufficiently Egyptian. About a minute into the show, our wonderful singer, Samir, begins an extra-long and slow solo. OMG. The special Randa-like moves I’ve been practicing go out the window and I do what we performers must always do, dance what is second-nature to us. For me, not especially Egyptian, but LOTS of fun. I love working with live music -- the show is always a surprise and I am transported by the passion of the moment.

Now it’s time for me to relax and enjoy the rest of the evening. I’m eager to see Aurel’s performance, in which she’ll be dancing and singing Batwannis Beek. She doesn’t disappoint, in fact she steals the show. The audience goes wild as she begins singing and her dancing is perfect. I’m videoing and standing behind Randa’s table and I can hear her and her guests yelling “Aiwa!!” (YES!!) I am so proud to be her friend.

The evening winds down and we are each called for a photo op with Randa as we receive our Course certificates. When my name is called, she gives a big hug and signals the band to play happy birthday. Everyone sings, first in English, then Arabic. Wow, it’s going to be a good year.

Aurel and I are much to excited to sleep, and my lights finally go out at 3:00. My bags are packed and I’ll get 90 minutes rest before we head to the airport for our flight to Luxor.

The Agony of Defeat...The Thrill of Victory

Randa arrives to class today refreshed and looking like it’s the first class of the week. She’s excited to teach us a new choreography she’s been working on.

For some reason, energy in the class is really low. Many of the dancers went to the disco last night, so that might account for it, but I have no excuse. I didn’t leave my room, but I didn‘t get to bed before 2:00 a.m. either.. It’s a wonderful choreography but mind numbingly filled with turns and counter-turns and is very, very fast. I’m lost. Immediately. Sadly for Randa but happily for me, many of my fellow dancers are too, even though she patiently repeats the combinations. I finally throw the towel in and watch while taking notes. I’m really tired at the end of the day and further discouraged to hear Randa say we’ll work on it again tomorrow. Ugh.

Aurel and I hook up with new friends Sheila from NYC and Grace from Mexico City for dinner at our new favorite restaurant, Maguib Mahfouz in Khan el Khalili -- pronounce: hen hell-e-ly, with the gutteral ‘H‘. We’ve decided that this will be a really early night for us so we can get some much needed sleep. Our hotel is in Giza, about 20 minutes outside of Cairo, but in traffic a one-hour ride. And there is ALWAYS traffic and lots of it. Our dinner is delicious and company good, but once again we return to the hotel after midnight so it’s another 2:00 a.m. night.

I dread class in the morning and another day of the ‘new routine,’ but don’t dare skip.

Randa arrives smiling and full of energy and with a new plan. She starts from the very beginning of the routine and breaks down every single combination. Over and over again we run through the steps till we do them correctly. She simply will not give up on us. Suddenly, this challenging choreography has become really fun.

Earlier in the week, an afternoon that class size looked a little sparse, Randa pointed out that this is a ‘course’ not a dance festival. It’s work and fun, but lots of work. She expects us to behave professionally, attend every class in a timely manner and not talk in class (seems to be a problem for some). Hers and our commitment to the classes is bearing fruit today, and by 5:00 when our week with Randa comes to an end I know I‘ve been through something extraordinary.

Having said that, I’m not at all looking forward to my performance with the band this evening. My dance style is completely different from the modern Egyptian style I am studying, where there are no zils, few soft arm movement and a different way of shimmying. It’s like dancing with my hands tied behind my back. To make matters worse, most of the dancers have studied with Randa before, or are at least very familiar with the Egyptian style. I feel like a duck out of water.

I’ve been toying with the idea of backing out of the show, but finally talk myself into hanging in. After all, I may never have the chance to dance in Cairo with a six-piece Egyptian band again. In my spare time - usually the 1 a.m. hour - I’ve worked on some of the new steps I’ve learned this week and plan to use them in my show, sort of a tip of the hat to Randa. Other than that, I’ll just do my dance and try to enjoy myself. In just three hours I’ll find out!

Partying at Ezba

Today we’re away from the rigors of class and are spending a ‘Day with Randa,’ a field trip to a resort called Ezba on the outskirts of Cairo near Saqqara. I’m grateful that the bus won’t leave till noon and am looking forward to a quiet night’s sleep with no early-morning wake-up call. Unfortunately I underestimate how tired I am. The phone rings me out of a dead sleep…it‘s Aurel wanting to know where I am because the bus is leaving! I‘m so deep in sleep I can hardly understand what she‘s saying and insist that they go along without me.

After a few minutes I realize what I’ve done and place a frantic call to Sara Farouk, our genius organizer and mother hen. If she’ll arrange a driver for me, I can take a cab and meet them at Ezba. She does, and in a short while (and still looking sleepy) I’m on my way.

My driver, Fayiz, speaks English well and tells me he was a career merchant marine. He’s traveled all over the world and visited most of its ports, but his favorite place is….Texas! Well I’ll be. He points out the many unfinished buildings that line the streets and tells me that building owners don’t have to pay tax on their buildings till they’re complete. So, even though they’re currently occupied they may be missing a wall or roof. I’ve noticed these buildings everywhere, occupied but with rebar sticking out the top like an unruly head of hair.

When I arrive the party is in full swing. What a sight! I enter the compound, a small cleanly resort and feel I’ve just stepped back into the 1800’s. Off to my left is a fire and a woman baking bread. A darling little girl in traditional garb carries her goat. For a little baksheesh (tips) I can hold him while our picture is taken. For only 20 Egyptian pounds, about $3.50, a camel-driver dressed in a galabaya (traditional men’s garb that looks like a long dress) takes willing dancers for a ride on his gaily decorated camel. We find out later that if you refuse to pay, he’ll take you anyway. Three musicians in fez hats with doumbec (drum), oud (pot-bellied string instrument) and violin roam from table to table playing lively music for the guests who can’t help but dance. I’m warmly greeted by Randa herself and thank her for her hospitality. Her warmth and good humor are contagious.

I find Aurel and off we head to the camel-guy who leads us around the compound on, who else, Ramses the camel. Ramses is a handsome fellow who seems to wear a perpetual smile. He’s bedecked in colorful blankets with red, turquoise and yellow geometric designs, and a saddle replete with tassels and pom-poms. There’s obviously great warmth between the two and when the guy puts Ramses in a head-lock and rubs his ears the camel doesn’t seem to mind at all.

We are taken for a long camel ride, very long compared to the five minutes the other guests get. First me, then Aurel, then Aurel and I together. The guide lets us feed Ramses and takes many photos of us. I suspect that we’ve overpaid him (which turns out to be true) but don’t mind. For a mere $3 each, we’ve had a ball.

Next we’re treated to a performance by the Palmyra folk dance company. The beautiful young women are alternately coy and strong as they dance alongside the men who energetically bend to the floor and leap into the air. Their costumes are colorful, and the choreography and staging interesting, with each dance telling a story of some kind. The highlight of the show is a dervish danced by a woman. I am unaware that women danced the dervish. She is remarkable in her spinning which easily lasts 20 minutes. Her dancing is very emotional as she silently sings along with the sacred song, her face bearing the joy or sorrow of each phrase. I find myself drawn into her emotional sphere, like the planets to the sun as she turns and turns. She also turns in a way I would’ve thought impossible, at one point bending from the waist and continuing her turns as she faces the floor. Her incredible performance is the highlight of the show.

Lunch follows as we head en-masse to another large roofed area, the outdoor restaurant. A feast of traditional foods beautifully arranged in a buffet greets us. We’re hungry and fill our plates before grabbing a seat. An ancient looking, decorated brass ‘hot-box’ filled with coals is placed on each table, a food warmer of sorts that is topped with various shish-kabob. More music follows, this time by three gents in traditional garb who look like they’ve just stepped out of National Geographic to join us. One plays a rababah, a Bedouin one string instrument played with a bow, another a nye (reed flute) and the third a doumbek. We’re torn between eating and dancing and soon the party is in full swing again. Some of the guys are dancing on their chairs waving money. The musicians roam from table to table and for 10 EP will sing your name….Kanina…Kanina…Kaniiiiinaaaa.

The party ends with a group photo by our resident photographer, Tracy, and tired but happy dancers we head home, chatting with new friends along the way.

Egyptian Dance Has Lots of Rules

Those of us who grew up learning dance in the 70’s were heavily influenced by the musicians we worked with. In those days it wasn’t uncommon for Greek, Armenian and Arabic musicians to play together on the same stage. Hence, we combine many of those ethnic styles into our version of belly dance. America, the melting pot.

Here it’s different. If you speak to any Egyptian, they will tell you emphatically, that belly dance is theirs, no one else’s. The Turks and Lebanese might disagree, but that’s another story.
Anyway, I am surprised when our teacher corrects the class on a certain shoulder move she see us doing. ‘No, no she says, that‘s folkloric, not for belly dance.’ And another time, ’No, that move for Saidi, not Balady.’ Even hands have their do’s and don'ts. There’s a lot to learn here. Then there is Shaabi, the new street-style dancing, our version of hip-hop, I think. Some moves crossover, but others not. Throw music into this mix. When the singer chants (no beat), we usually refer to it as ’taqsim.’ Here it’s called mawal, or horl (sp?), but each requires different moves by the dancer. Try as we might, many of us can’t hear the difference.

Also different from dancing in the US, here the song is the song. When you dance, the song is played the way it was originally written. It's always the same and the dancer knows what to expect. I am planning to dance to Sawwah at the closing show. Sadly for me, the original isn't the version I know. Happily, I just stumbled on the original in my iPod, the Souher Zaki version. In this original there's a long taqsim in the middle. I can't tell from listening if it's a mawal or horl, so who knows, I may be committing some mortal Egyptian sin during my performance. If I don't return to the states look for me in belly dance prison. :-)

Our days are exhilarating but exhausting and passing too quickly. There is so much to absorb and Randa is a high energy teacher. ‘Come on! Come on! She exhorts at the 4:00 hour, are you sleeping?’ I can’t believe we only have two more days of classes. I’m looking forward to them and plan to absorb as much as possible.

It’s hard to be in Cairo and not see the awful effect of international broadcasting on their economy. People that I’ve spoken with here say that while CNN was busily broadcasting the fantastic from Tahrir Square last January, the rest of the country went about it’s daily business. I mentioned earlier that Tahrir Square looks nothing like it did on TV. It’s small, smaller than Burnside Park which is in downtown Providence near the Biltmore Hotel. Sadly, as a result of all the publicity, tourism, a major industry here, dried up. People are really hurting.
Last night the hotel manager told us that the drop in tourism caused this hotel to close for almost three months last spring. A beautiful four-star hotel, closed, and all the staff with no work. Even now, they brought in staff for our ‘convention,’ but they may reduce once we leave. I really hope the tourists come back and things improve soon. It’s an amazing place.

Tomorrow is a big day, ‘Day out with Randa,’ a break from our dance routine and I’m excited to see what she has in store for us.

Randa of Course

Today is Wednesday and I’ve already had three days of classes with Randa Kamel. I wasn’t sure what to expect, sometimes great performers don’t make the best teachers. I’m overjoyed to say all that this has been a fantastic learning experience.

Students at Randa of Course (the title of these workshops) come from all over the world. We number fifty, from Scotland, Spain, Mexico, Morocco, Germany, France, England, and Japan. Unlike the Turkish Delight Festival, where I was the only American, six of us attend this workshop. The majority of students have studied with Randa before, yet she makes all of us feel welcome. She meticulously breaks down steps, even telling us what muscle groups we should be using. She encourages questions if we don’t understand and will review a combination as many times as she is asked. I get much of it, but as a neophyte here, I have yet to ask a question.

Bring your muscles if you plan to dance Randa’s Egyptian Style! Her balance is impeccable and much of what we do is in releve. So far, it’s fast. Very fast. Unlike what I’ve been told, in this style we’re not keeping our legs close together. Randa takes big strides and can move across the stage in a step or two. Adductors (those muscles in the upper, inside part of the thigh), abdominals and gluttes are really worked, so if you‘re Randa (not me) you‘re not flopping from one place to another. Class is strenuous and I’m dripping wet within 20 minutes.

Surprisingly, my knee isn’t distressed, even though I’m dancing on carpeting for hours each day. I think the muscle groups we're using help to protect it. That’s good news for my miracle-working physical therapist back home, Steve Morganstein. :-)

Our day starts with a one-hour warm-up which I mistakenly thought was a stretch. Not so. The first day was a disaster with the ’warm-up’ teacher leading students in advanced ballet leaps, chene turns, etc. Crazy stuff that I wouldn’t try even if I was warmed up. Along with many others, I sat that one out. Now I stretch in my room before class, even though that guy hasn’t been back. A new teacher starts our day with a folkloric choreography which is fun.

After that first hour Randa teaches us for 5 hours. We start with technique, which is my favorite part. She does wonderful combinations! My studies with Mahmoud Reda have helped me to turn in unexpected ways, but the movement is really, really different from anything I’ve done before. I regret that I don't have some ballet training. It’s kind of intimidating but I’m having a terrific time learning this new style.

During class Randa urges us to show emotion as we dance. She translates the song lyrics so we understand what we’re dancing to and reminds us that a dancer without emotion can’t relate to the audience. She herself is a very emotional dancer, singing or at least mouthing the words to the song as she dances. While I don’t feel I’m yet dancing on par with the others, I’m beaming in class, just feeling the joy of the dance and of being here. She points to me at one point saying ‘you have a beautiful smile.’ Made my day. :-)

Experiencing the joy that is Randa

You haven't truly experienced belly dancing until you've seen an Egyptian dance.

My night begins with a bus full of dancers headed to the Nile for a dinner cruise aboard the Nile Maxim. Decending the steps from the road to the dock, we enter another world. A gaggle of musicians adorned in white galabaya and head wrap greet us and the festivities begin. Some of you are familiar with the Arabic moulid, (festival), or zeffet (the procession that preceeds a wedding party). This was it. Let the fun begin!! They play and we dance. It's the party before the party. We procession to the boat, horns wailing, drums beating, and as we approach some of the musicians start dancing and spinning. Quite a show.

The boat is luxurious, with carpeted floors, lovely lighting, a huge stained class window overhead and tables for 500 or more. A large stage. Our hostess, the amazing Sara, takes the microphone and announces a 'very special guest,' a dance legend, responsible for much that we belly dancers are today. The acolades go on and on. I think, no, it couldn't possibly be, it was. The legend herself, Nagua Fouad. I immediately start to cry and am teary again just thinking of it. She is absolutely beautiful and gracious. She patiently takes photos with many of us and later graces us with a short dance.


Immediately after dinner Randa Kamel takes the stage. I've seen many dancers and many I've adored, but none like this. It was the most emotional performance I've ever seen. We got crazy, like patrons at a Pat's game, cheering and begging for more. Here is a dancer who exudes passion and joy at the same time. She's a strong dancer, very strong and very sexy. Her stride is long and moves are big, yet she stays completely over her move every time. The audience was rivited. She does two shows, long shows, with two or three costume changes for each (I can't remember now...lots)! During the costume changes, singers are on stage entertaining us. Did I mention that Randa was backed by an 18 piece orchestra?


We return to the hotel around midnight, but much to emotionally charged to sleep. Sleep finally calls at 3:00. I'll be up again by 8:00 for my first day of classes with Randa.

Tahrir Square and the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities

This morning we're off to the Egyptian Museum to see the antiquities with our new guide, Eslem.
It's our fourth cab ride; we've emerged from our vehicular PTSD and acutally enjoy the craziness! Reading my blogs, you'd think that all I did was ride in cabs, but it's fascinating, plus, we see a lot of really cool stuff from the cab. Traffic etiquitte actually exists, I'm just not privy to it. Cab riding has become a fascinating part of Cairo life for me. Compared to this, driving Boston, New York, LA is child's play.


Once or twice each time we cab, we hear the telltale metallic 'crunch' of fenders kissing. Once we saw a driver wave to the other and continue on his way. Other times, drivers emerge, exchange angry words, shrug, then continue their separate ways. I guess there's no insurance here. Nevertheless, we've only seen one serious accident, so we somehow feel safer.


Our first stop is a 'quick' one, to pay for and get tickets for a flight to Luxor that we've booked. Here is how is goes: we're close to the location, our driver gets a little lost asks a few directions, then begins driving in reverse down a main street. Aurel and I laugh and laugh. I'm sure the drivers think WE'RE crazy! We get to the travel agency and it takes an hour or so to complete this transaction. We chat, the agent makes a few phone calls to get the details of our trip, we hear the call to prayer (five times a day) and I'm humming along, so the agent pulls it up on his computer and tells me the English translation, we inquire about his background, he asks about our trip, etc....It takes a while, but it's lovely. The Egyptian people are so friendly.


On to the museum which is on Tahrir Square. The Square doesn't look so big and we wonder about the sights we saw on TV. Maybe they used the same photograpers that photo the inside of sailboats or RV's. :-) All is quiet on the square. Some tents are set up in the middle. Today it looks more like Occupy Providence. We'll see what happens Tuesday.


The grounds of the museum are lovely. It's surrounded by small gardens and huge, ancient statues and we pass through a security checkpoint before entering. This is the first time I've seen armed guards carrying automatic weapons and I remember that the museum was damaged during the demonstrations last January. At one point, I think the demonstrators linked arms and formed a ring around the museum to protect it from hooligans.

Everything is different in Cairo and the museum is no exception. No cameras are allowed inside and that seems to be the only rule. The museum holds about 120,000 items, some dating back to 3100bc. Mind blowing. On the first floor I wander between gigantic statues and crypts decorated with heiroglyphics. Some are marked with dates and include information but many are not. There doesen't seem to be any security in the building and you can get as close to the antiquities as you like. I even saw people running their fingers over the heiroglyphics! There are signs posted here and there saying it's forbidden to touch, but not many signs. Standing right next to one of these crypts or statues, is a mind-blowing experience and remids me that our time on earth is short. So many amazing things have come before us. I wonder what those people thought? I know I'm waxing lyrical.....

After an hour it's upstairs to the Tutankhamun rooms where I hope to wrap my mind around this amazing collection of 1,700 pieces, some as teeny as carved figurines, others, well the size of a room. Yes, a room, gilded inside and out. Hundreds of tiny scarabs have messages carved on their undersides wishing for things like good fortune in the hunt; they remind me of tiny fortune cookies. Much of the jewelry and other artifacts could pass for new. They're that stylish and well preserved! Well, not the gold chariot, of course, I know it's not new. When's the last time you used one? Fodor's guidebook calls it 'living proof of the skillfulness of Egyptian artistry and the lavishness of the Egyptian civilization,' and they are so right.

We pass through Tahrir again on our way home and this time there's more activity. A big banner waves in the wind. Looks important, but I'm at a loss as to what it says. Vendors are set up along the road selling, what else, commemorative T-shirts! Happily, they're made in Egypt. At our urging, Eslam stops and blocks traffic so we can purchase two, black shirts proclaiming Freedom 2011, Egypt, with a fist and the words 25 January. I'm really moved, but then again, everything here is moving me.

Back to the hotel and time to ready for the Randa of Course opening gala cruise on the Nile Maxim, my first opportunity to see this famous dancer.

Going to the desert? Bring a coat.

Did I mention it was cold?

Shortly after arriving I called the front desk to report that he heat in my room wasn't working. It's about 64 degrees in here, a temperature that doesn't agree with me. Oh, says the receptionist, we don't have heat. Would you like a blanket? Um, no I wouldn't. I'm not going to bed, I'm sitting and typing at my computer.

The temp here is 60-ish during the day and pretty sunny, but drops rapidly as the sun gets low. What I learn is that Egyptian hotels are designed to keep the heat OUT, not in. Most of the year it's unbearably hot, so when it's cool they just 'add another blanket.' I'm quite a sight as I sit here blogging in my room with one or two scarves wrapped around my head, wearing warm, fuzzy socks and a couple of sweaters. I make quite a picture. So much for the desert!

All of my previous blogs took place during day one and I'm not exaggerating that we were up for 36 hours. Thursday night I went to bed at 2:00 a.m. and slept right through till Friday 4:00 p.m. Yippee!

Friday was pretty quiet... tried to get my head on straight (unsuccessful); We met with Sarah to set up a trip to Luxor then chatted with this remarkable woman for a couple of hours. We are lucky to have her as our liason her in Cairo. Dinner followed at 10 p.m., pretty funny...an Italian restaurant in our Egyptian hotel. More chatting with newfound friend Raqsanna of Chicago..then off to blog at midnight and getting to bed again at 2:00 a.m.

I'm much too excited to sleep, and tomorrow Aurel and I head off to the Museum of Antiquities for the day...and then...our first chance to see Randa Kamel herself!

Dinner at Naguib Mahfouz

Sara has suggested that while at Kahn al-Khalinie we dine at Naguib Mahfouz Restaurant, named for the Pulitzer Prize winning Egyptian author, so Karem, Aurel, Tamer and I thread our way through the alleys to find our way. Thankfully Kamer and Tamer are hungry and urge us along, past fantastical punched silver globe lights (have to have one) and caftans. Our mantra is: we're hungry, don't stop for anything.


We're new at this and I'm not quite sure how it will work...they are our guides, but do they also dine with us? If we dine alone, do they just twiddle their thumbs till we return? When we arrive at the restuarant, they ask what time we'd like them back. Problem solved.


Entering the restaurant I'm a bit taken aback as it looks like a movie set. Egyptian men and women are sitting around smoking sheesha and listening to a kanoun (harp-like instrument) and rig (tambourine-like drum). I'm not sure if this is a place for foreigners. I look around, smile, and everyone smiles back. Just then the matre'd welcomes us with open arms, and leads us to a beautifully decorated dining area. Elaborately engraved brass table-tops are set with beautiful table-ware and linens. Our waiter seats Aurel and I and we are in the lap of luxury. I try the stuffed pigeon (what the heck, when in Rome...) and Aurel orders a yummy stew served in a beautiful copper pot. Our waiter says the food will arrive in one hour. Huh? We've already been talking non-stop for 20 minutes - we're overwhelmed with sight and sound - and we told Tamr and Karem we'd be out in an hour. I look at the waiter shocked. Umm, an hour? I say. His eyes twinkle. Only a joke he replies, and chuckling walks away. We're finding that the Egyptians are incredible funny. We try to speak as many Egyptian words as wecan which they find hilarious...and then help us to learn more.


Dinner is wonderful and sometime after an hour, a tired and cold Kamel appears to nudge us along. We pay the bill, and begin exiting through the sheesha bar. Egyptians are smiling and clapping for us...we smile and clap back. Wait! Wait! says the kanoun play and begins playing a tune for us on the kanoun. I thought, Oh! I bet we'll hear an Om Kalthoum song. Instead, he plays Old MacDonald had a Farm. I'm laughing so hard I'm almost peeing myself. We clap and smile and bid them good-bye.


It's a long ride back to the hotel, but by now, after midnight and not so much traffic. Aurel and I have been up for 36 hours and I should go to bed but my mind is full and wild. This is quite a place.

The Magpie Snydrome

At the appointed time our driver, Tamr, fetches us and we're on our way.

Kahn al-Khalini is across town, not far, really, but it is rush hour, so it will take an hour, minimum. We quickly discover that 'riding the ring' this morning was child's play. Cars are squeezed together, seemingly helter skelter. We are at a dead stop for the longest time because cars in the extreme right lane are turning left...across three other lanes. At one point, two drivers emerge and begin yelling. Street theater. Another fellow leaves his car, settles these two down, and begins directing traffic himself. We move again.

In the midst of the mayhem donkey carts are driven down the road, weaving like every other vehicle. Scooters squeeze between cars if there is more than 24 inches. One driver edges forward, his burka-clad passenger on the back of the scooter. They pause next to us and I can hear them laughing and joking. It's all so incongruous. Throw in the wonderful license plates, written in beautiful Arab script and the plentiful mosques, minarets aglow with lights, and I feel like I'm in a scene from some movie.

We're unable to converse with Tamr, who speaks little English. After several attempts he makes a phone call then asks if it's okay for his English-speaking friend to join us. We hesitate. It's okay says Tamr, no charge for him. Ummmmm, well, okay. Nothing had been said about two men escorting us. We've gone off script.

We arrive to Khan al-Khalili a few minutes later and are introduced to Edward, an affable young man who speaks decent English. There's been a mis-understanding...we thought Tamr was to drop us off, then meet us again in three hours to take us back to the hotel. When we try to say good-bye to Tamr he becomes distressed. Edward explains that Tamr is responsible for us. If anything should happen, 'Sara will have his head.' Thank goodness for Sara! As it turns out, we are accompanied by two guardian angles.

Khan al-Khalini is a picture right out of the Arabian Nights. Alley after alley of tiny open-air shops laden with, well, everything. Hanging brass trays, small and large, brass tea sets, belly dance stuff, camels, King Tut replicas, scarabs and on and on and on. Shopkeepers commiserate with one another, waiting for clients, but sadly there are few tourists. I wonder why they're not hasseling us then realize that Karem has stationed himself in front of us and Tamer behind. I see them signal that we are not to be disturbed. We're on a mission -- to go to Mahmoud's shop, a mecca for belly dancers.

Many years ago a student said I had the Magpie Syndrome. What's that, I asked? You are hypnotically drawn to anything that glitters, she answered. Same as a magpie.

Her words come back to me as we enter Mahmoud's...three floors of everything belly dance. Aurel's and my eyes first bug out then glaze over. We've entered Nirvana. Jewelry, hip belts, swords, caftans, skirts, cholis, Saidi dresses, costumes and more. You name it, it's here. Good quality, too. Aurel is there to stock her store. I'm just looking today but begin thinking of recital costumes. I take lots of notes and will buy later.

Tamr and Karem are with Aurel the whole time, Tamr occasionally checking on me. They intepret and negotiate with the salesperson (Mahmoud himself isn't there) and have the patience of two saints, even helping with the shopping! Our plan is to spend an hour at Mahmoud's then head to Yassir's, another store. Instead, we are at Mahmoud's for almost three hours.

It's very late and in all the excitement we haven't eaten all day. Time for our first Egyptian meal.

You Haven't Lived Until You've Died a Thousand Deaths in an Egyptian Cab

Our NYC-Cairo flight went off without a hitch...We arrived an hour early. :-) The airport is devoid of the noisy, teeming throngs I had imagined. Tourism is sadly down, especially now, just before the anniversary of the advent of 'Arab Spring' (tomorrow, January 20th). It sort of reminds me of the anticipation of January 1, 2000, Y2-K. No one knew what to expect. From what I'm hearing here, Cairenes expect the same. Nothing noteworthy. They just not sure but want to get on with their lives.

We're met at the airport by Edward, an English-speaking Egyptian tour guide who immediately and confidently takes control of Aurel and I, helps with our luggage and guides us to a waiting van. It's taken Aurel and I a while to get our acts together after disembarking, we're a bit sleepy, and by the time Edward gets us to the the van the driver is snoozing in the front seat. :-) Edward wakes him and we're on our merry way.

"Merry," def: the most hair-raising ride of my life. I've heard about life on the Egyptian road, but really, until you've experienced it.... There are white lines separating the lanes, though I have no idea why. Our driver liked the white line, and therefore rode it. He created 5 lanes where there used to be four, while expertly weaving in and out of other vehicles. But really, not him, EVERYONE. There are no lanes! At times we were 5, 6, 7 wide. Older Rhode Islanders may remember the Dodg'ems at Rocky Point, bumper cars that rode in a circle, no rhyme or reason? This is driving in Cairo. But no bumpers and FAST. Cars manage to stay within inches of one another, I'm not kidding, front to back, side to side. We're on a highway called the 'ring' - it rings around the city - and suddenly , I spot a pedestrian crossing the road ahead. I'm beside myself and think it may be a suicide mission. No, Edward tells me. This is normal. Egyptian men think they are ... Superheroes? I ask, just as he replies Supermen. Yikes. Within minutes we pass may pedestrians who plan to do the same.

At the hotel we meet Sara Faraq, coordinator for the event and superhero in her own right. A frank, feisty woman who will help Aurel and I while we are in Cairo. Despite the long plane ride and little sleep we'd like to go shopping at the world's most famous bazaar, Kahn al -Khalili. Aurel need to make contacts for her store, Alimah's Closet, and me, well who can pass up a shopping experience. Sara arranges a driver to take us to Mohammed's, who has THREE, yes count 'em, three floors of belly dance merchandise, then to Yassir's, a belly dance costumer.

I barely have time to go to my room, unpack and grab a quick half-hour nap.

This is crazy, but I have to ask...Will you go to Egypt with me?

So began the email from my friend and fellow dancer, Aurel.

She wanted to study with world-famous dancer Randa Kamel and possibly add a day or two for sightseeing. My instinct...YES!! Traveling to Egypt had always been a dream, but kind of a faraway dream that I'd really never acted on. Here came opportunity knocking at my door in the form of Aurel and within a week we enrolled in 'Randa Kamel of Course,' six-days of workshops with the dancer herself.

I'm especially excited to work with one dancer. During my trip to the Turkish Delight Festival in 2010 I took classes with many dancers considered tops in their field. The prosepect of learning from one teacher really appeals to me, and my reaearch tells me that she is an exacting teacher at that.

Our trip goes in fits and starts. The day we plan to book our flights Egypt erupts in mass demonstrations against the Egyptian Government, which is currently run by the milatary. We don't know what is in store for Cairo, so we wait. The worst, we'll lose our $500 deposits. Later we begin to hear amazing things from people who currently live in or have recently travelled to Cairo. All is safe, the people are warm and welcoming. So, 18 days before our trip we make the commitment and book our flights, round-trips from JFK directly to Cairo. Knight-in-shining-armor, Bill Hague has offered to drive Aurel and I to JFK. An eight-hour round-trip for him means that he'll arrive back in RI two hours before we arrive in Cairo!