Lush, Lovely Luxor

I’ve just closed my eyes, or so it seems, when the wake-up call jars me into consciousness. 90 minutes sleep passes pretty quickly. Bags were packed last night and after a refreshing shower it’s off to the airport for our flight to Luxor. Surprise of surprises at 6:30 a.m. there’s no Cairo traffic!

Once in the airport I’m a bit panicky. We’re completely on our own for the first time with no guide to lead us along like a willing school children. Life has been so hectic that I’m not really sure I’ve taken the correct documents, and the airport is a bit confusing. We find our way, though, and soon we’re in flight and sound asleep.

The approach to Luxor, as was the approach to Cairo is quite amazing. The desert below, a peaceful beige that stretches forever, is suddenly interrupted by a swath of green. The color doesn’t appear a bit at a time, like you’d expect. Desert simply ends and fertile valley begins.

Luxor, the ancient capital city known as Thebes, is BEAUTIFUL and quite literally, a breath of fresh air after being in Cairo. Palm trees stretch toward a clear, clean, blue sky and the sun shines brightly. Again and again I inhale deep gulps of refreshingly clean air. Within minutes I’m relaxed, rejuvenated and just plain happy. For the first time in Egypt I feel as though I’m on vacation.

Aurel and I are ravenously hungry and need some food. Quickly. I had only picked at my dinner the previous evening (was that just 12 hours ago??) and I don’t think Aurel ate at all. After puzzling for a moment our driver asks if we like Shwarma. We love shwarma, even for breakfast, and we’re whisked off to the Snak Time Fast Food Café.

I’m giggling as soon as I see Snak Time and have visions of eating my first Luxor meal at an Egyptian McDonalds. Instead, the place is immaculately clean and after ordering we’re directed to the fourth floor where we take a balcony table overlooking Luxor’s main street and the ancient Temple at Luxor. For the longest time we sit and try to absorb the beauty and significance of what we’re seeing.

Luxor, quaint, clean and orderly, reminds me a bit of an Arabian Burmuda. Festive horse-drawn carriages clip-clop down a main street that is so quiet the hoof beats echo. Across from us men in traditional garb of galabaya and turbans and women in hijab socialize or relax in a lovely park. One fellow so attired is propped against a palm tree, resting on the grass and chatting on his cell phone. Then, out of the silence, the hauntingly beautiful call to prayer. Juxtapositions abound.

Beyond the park, walking distance from the main street, lies the grand Temple of Luxor, built 3,500 years ago. To our right is the modern town of Luxor. Throughout our trip I’m surprised to see ancient and modern existing side by side.

Our guide for the weekend, Said, appears and introduces himself... and we’re off for our next adventure.