We leave Luxor Temple, and my head is full of the mystery I’ve just experienced. El-Luxor hotel is just minutes away, but we seem to be traveling a circuitous route through the center of town. No matter, it’s pretty and without the Cairo mayhem the ride is enjoyable.
Sasa stops the van in front of a store and Siad apologizes but must run an errand. No problem, Aurel and I are giddy and trying to converse with Sasa. We seem to be an unending source of amusement to the Egyptians whenever we speak. Siad returns with what looks like a take-out bag and I’m thinking -- oh lord, this poor guy never ate dinner!
We drive another block and stop again; Siad again apologizes but this time returns quickly.
When the van stops a third time and there are no stores around, my brain clicks into high alert.
Just then Siad says, "I feel terrible....You mentioned earlier today that it was your birthday, but I forgot, so Sasa and I want to wish you a Happy Birthday now." He reaches into his bags and 
produces four birthday cakes, plastic forks and Snow White cake plates, and roses for Aurel and me. They sing Happy Birthday to me in English and Arabic, and we are laughing ourselves to tears. I can’t believe I am having a Van Birthday Party in Luxor, Egypt.
produces four birthday cakes, plastic forks and Snow White cake plates, and roses for Aurel and me. They sing Happy Birthday to me in English and Arabic, and we are laughing ourselves to tears. I can’t believe I am having a Van Birthday Party in Luxor, Egypt.It’s a quick ride back to the hotel and though it’s late, I know sleep will elude me. A beer from the hotel bar might help, so Aurel and I each bring one to the room, which is.....brrrrrr freezing! I 
neglected to close the balcony doors earlier and the temperature inside is the same as out, low 40's. But the view is spectacular, so we cocoon ourselves in extra blankets wrap scarves around our heads, don our gloves and sit on the balcony. With my beer poking out of an opening in the blanket, I’m quite a fashion statement.
neglected to close the balcony doors earlier and the temperature inside is the same as out, low 40's. But the view is spectacular, so we cocoon ourselves in extra blankets wrap scarves around our heads, don our gloves and sit on the balcony. With my beer poking out of an opening in the blanket, I’m quite a fashion statement.T
he scene before us is remarkable. In the foreground, a beautiful palm tree sits on the bank of the Nile. Across the river lies the Valley of the Kings, resting place of the great Pharaohs, softly and peacefully lit at night. And in the sky a perfect crescent moon with its accompanying bright star. We chat for the longest time, as girls will do, about life in general and about our lives. The moon dips closer and closer to the palm tree and horizon, and by the time we go to bed I realize that we’ve come to Egypt as friends but will leave as sisters.
he scene before us is remarkable. In the foreground, a beautiful palm tree sits on the bank of the Nile. Across the river lies the Valley of the Kings, resting place of the great Pharaohs, softly and peacefully lit at night. And in the sky a perfect crescent moon with its accompanying bright star. We chat for the longest time, as girls will do, about life in general and about our lives. The moon dips closer and closer to the palm tree and horizon, and by the time we go to bed I realize that we’ve come to Egypt as friends but will leave as sisters.
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