Dinner at Naguib Mahfouz

Sara has suggested that while at Kahn al-Khalinie we dine at Naguib Mahfouz Restaurant, named for the Pulitzer Prize winning Egyptian author, so Karem, Aurel, Tamer and I thread our way through the alleys to find our way. Thankfully Kamer and Tamer are hungry and urge us along, past fantastical punched silver globe lights (have to have one) and caftans. Our mantra is: we're hungry, don't stop for anything.


We're new at this and I'm not quite sure how it will work...they are our guides, but do they also dine with us? If we dine alone, do they just twiddle their thumbs till we return? When we arrive at the restuarant, they ask what time we'd like them back. Problem solved.


Entering the restaurant I'm a bit taken aback as it looks like a movie set. Egyptian men and women are sitting around smoking sheesha and listening to a kanoun (harp-like instrument) and rig (tambourine-like drum). I'm not sure if this is a place for foreigners. I look around, smile, and everyone smiles back. Just then the matre'd welcomes us with open arms, and leads us to a beautifully decorated dining area. Elaborately engraved brass table-tops are set with beautiful table-ware and linens. Our waiter seats Aurel and I and we are in the lap of luxury. I try the stuffed pigeon (what the heck, when in Rome...) and Aurel orders a yummy stew served in a beautiful copper pot. Our waiter says the food will arrive in one hour. Huh? We've already been talking non-stop for 20 minutes - we're overwhelmed with sight and sound - and we told Tamr and Karem we'd be out in an hour. I look at the waiter shocked. Umm, an hour? I say. His eyes twinkle. Only a joke he replies, and chuckling walks away. We're finding that the Egyptians are incredible funny. We try to speak as many Egyptian words as wecan which they find hilarious...and then help us to learn more.


Dinner is wonderful and sometime after an hour, a tired and cold Kamel appears to nudge us along. We pay the bill, and begin exiting through the sheesha bar. Egyptians are smiling and clapping for us...we smile and clap back. Wait! Wait! says the kanoun play and begins playing a tune for us on the kanoun. I thought, Oh! I bet we'll hear an Om Kalthoum song. Instead, he plays Old MacDonald had a Farm. I'm laughing so hard I'm almost peeing myself. We clap and smile and bid them good-bye.


It's a long ride back to the hotel, but by now, after midnight and not so much traffic. Aurel and I have been up for 36 hours and I should go to bed but my mind is full and wild. This is quite a place.