Monday, January 23, 2012

Tahrir Square and the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities

This morning we're off to the Egyptian Museum to see the antiquities with our new guide, Eslem.
It's our fourth cab ride; we've emerged from our vehicular PTSD and acutally enjoy the craziness! Reading my blogs, you'd think that all I did was ride in cabs, but it's fascinating, plus, we see a lot of really cool stuff from the cab. Traffic etiquitte actually exists, I'm just not privy to it. Cab riding has become a fascinating part of Cairo life for me. Compared to this, driving Boston, New York, LA is child's play.


Once or twice each time we cab, we hear the telltale metallic 'crunch' of fenders kissing. Once we saw a driver wave to the other and continue on his way. Other times, drivers emerge, exchange angry words, shrug, then continue their separate ways. I guess there's no insurance here. Nevertheless, we've only seen one serious accident, so we somehow feel safer.


Our first stop is a 'quick' one, to pay for and get tickets for a flight to Luxor that we've booked. Here is how is goes: we're close to the location, our driver gets a little lost asks a few directions, then begins driving in reverse down a main street. Aurel and I laugh and laugh. I'm sure the drivers think WE'RE crazy! We get to the travel agency and it takes an hour or so to complete this transaction. We chat, the agent makes a few phone calls to get the details of our trip, we hear the call to prayer (five times a day) and I'm humming along, so the agent pulls it up on his computer and tells me the English translation, we inquire about his background, he asks about our trip, etc....It takes a while, but it's lovely. The Egyptian people are so friendly.


On to the museum which is on Tahrir Square. The Square doesn't look so big and we wonder about the sights we saw on TV. Maybe they used the same photograpers that photo the inside of sailboats or RV's. :-) All is quiet on the square. Some tents are set up in the middle. Today it looks more like Occupy Providence. We'll see what happens Tuesday.


The grounds of the museum are lovely. It's surrounded by small gardens and huge, ancient statues and we pass through a security checkpoint before entering. This is the first time I've seen armed guards carrying automatic weapons and I remember that the museum was damaged during the demonstrations last January. At one point, I think the demonstrators linked arms and formed a ring around the museum to protect it from hooligans.

Everything is different in Cairo and the museum is no exception. No cameras are allowed inside and that seems to be the only rule. The museum holds about 120,000 items, some dating back to 3100bc. Mind blowing. On the first floor I wander between gigantic statues and crypts decorated with heiroglyphics. Some are marked with dates and include information but many are not. There doesen't seem to be any security in the building and you can get as close to the antiquities as you like. I even saw people running their fingers over the heiroglyphics! There are signs posted here and there saying it's forbidden to touch, but not many signs. Standing right next to one of these crypts or statues, is a mind-blowing experience and remids me that our time on earth is short. So many amazing things have come before us. I wonder what those people thought? I know I'm waxing lyrical.....

After an hour it's upstairs to the Tutankhamun rooms where I hope to wrap my mind around this amazing collection of 1,700 pieces, some as teeny as carved figurines, others, well the size of a room. Yes, a room, gilded inside and out. Hundreds of tiny scarabs have messages carved on their undersides wishing for things like good fortune in the hunt; they remind me of tiny fortune cookies. Much of the jewelry and other artifacts could pass for new. They're that stylish and well preserved! Well, not the gold chariot, of course, I know it's not new. When's the last time you used one? Fodor's guidebook calls it 'living proof of the skillfulness of Egyptian artistry and the lavishness of the Egyptian civilization,' and they are so right.

We pass through Tahrir again on our way home and this time there's more activity. A big banner waves in the wind. Looks important, but I'm at a loss as to what it says. Vendors are set up along the road selling, what else, commemorative T-shirts! Happily, they're made in Egypt. At our urging, Eslam stops and blocks traffic so we can purchase two, black shirts proclaiming Freedom 2011, Egypt, with a fist and the words 25 January. I'm really moved, but then again, everything here is moving me.

Back to the hotel and time to ready for the Randa of Course opening gala cruise on the Nile Maxim, my first opportunity to see this famous dancer.

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