Egyptian Dance Has Lots of Rules

Those of us who grew up learning dance in the 70’s were heavily influenced by the musicians we worked with. In those days it wasn’t uncommon for Greek, Armenian and Arabic musicians to play together on the same stage. Hence, we combine many of those ethnic styles into our version of belly dance. America, the melting pot.

Here it’s different. If you speak to any Egyptian, they will tell you emphatically, that belly dance is theirs, no one else’s. The Turks and Lebanese might disagree, but that’s another story.
Anyway, I am surprised when our teacher corrects the class on a certain shoulder move she see us doing. ‘No, no she says, that‘s folkloric, not for belly dance.’ And another time, ’No, that move for Saidi, not Balady.’ Even hands have their do’s and don'ts. There’s a lot to learn here. Then there is Shaabi, the new street-style dancing, our version of hip-hop, I think. Some moves crossover, but others not. Throw music into this mix. When the singer chants (no beat), we usually refer to it as ’taqsim.’ Here it’s called mawal, or horl (sp?), but each requires different moves by the dancer. Try as we might, many of us can’t hear the difference.

Also different from dancing in the US, here the song is the song. When you dance, the song is played the way it was originally written. It's always the same and the dancer knows what to expect. I am planning to dance to Sawwah at the closing show. Sadly for me, the original isn't the version I know. Happily, I just stumbled on the original in my iPod, the Souher Zaki version. In this original there's a long taqsim in the middle. I can't tell from listening if it's a mawal or horl, so who knows, I may be committing some mortal Egyptian sin during my performance. If I don't return to the states look for me in belly dance prison. :-)

Our days are exhilarating but exhausting and passing too quickly. There is so much to absorb and Randa is a high energy teacher. ‘Come on! Come on! She exhorts at the 4:00 hour, are you sleeping?’ I can’t believe we only have two more days of classes. I’m looking forward to them and plan to absorb as much as possible.

It’s hard to be in Cairo and not see the awful effect of international broadcasting on their economy. People that I’ve spoken with here say that while CNN was busily broadcasting the fantastic from Tahrir Square last January, the rest of the country went about it’s daily business. I mentioned earlier that Tahrir Square looks nothing like it did on TV. It’s small, smaller than Burnside Park which is in downtown Providence near the Biltmore Hotel. Sadly, as a result of all the publicity, tourism, a major industry here, dried up. People are really hurting.
Last night the hotel manager told us that the drop in tourism caused this hotel to close for almost three months last spring. A beautiful four-star hotel, closed, and all the staff with no work. Even now, they brought in staff for our ‘convention,’ but they may reduce once we leave. I really hope the tourists come back and things improve soon. It’s an amazing place.

Tomorrow is a big day, ‘Day out with Randa,’ a break from our dance routine and I’m excited to see what she has in store for us.

Randa of Course

Today is Wednesday and I’ve already had three days of classes with Randa Kamel. I wasn’t sure what to expect, sometimes great performers don’t make the best teachers. I’m overjoyed to say all that this has been a fantastic learning experience.

Students at Randa of Course (the title of these workshops) come from all over the world. We number fifty, from Scotland, Spain, Mexico, Morocco, Germany, France, England, and Japan. Unlike the Turkish Delight Festival, where I was the only American, six of us attend this workshop. The majority of students have studied with Randa before, yet she makes all of us feel welcome. She meticulously breaks down steps, even telling us what muscle groups we should be using. She encourages questions if we don’t understand and will review a combination as many times as she is asked. I get much of it, but as a neophyte here, I have yet to ask a question.

Bring your muscles if you plan to dance Randa’s Egyptian Style! Her balance is impeccable and much of what we do is in releve. So far, it’s fast. Very fast. Unlike what I’ve been told, in this style we’re not keeping our legs close together. Randa takes big strides and can move across the stage in a step or two. Adductors (those muscles in the upper, inside part of the thigh), abdominals and gluttes are really worked, so if you‘re Randa (not me) you‘re not flopping from one place to another. Class is strenuous and I’m dripping wet within 20 minutes.

Surprisingly, my knee isn’t distressed, even though I’m dancing on carpeting for hours each day. I think the muscle groups we're using help to protect it. That’s good news for my miracle-working physical therapist back home, Steve Morganstein. :-)

Our day starts with a one-hour warm-up which I mistakenly thought was a stretch. Not so. The first day was a disaster with the ’warm-up’ teacher leading students in advanced ballet leaps, chene turns, etc. Crazy stuff that I wouldn’t try even if I was warmed up. Along with many others, I sat that one out. Now I stretch in my room before class, even though that guy hasn’t been back. A new teacher starts our day with a folkloric choreography which is fun.

After that first hour Randa teaches us for 5 hours. We start with technique, which is my favorite part. She does wonderful combinations! My studies with Mahmoud Reda have helped me to turn in unexpected ways, but the movement is really, really different from anything I’ve done before. I regret that I don't have some ballet training. It’s kind of intimidating but I’m having a terrific time learning this new style.

During class Randa urges us to show emotion as we dance. She translates the song lyrics so we understand what we’re dancing to and reminds us that a dancer without emotion can’t relate to the audience. She herself is a very emotional dancer, singing or at least mouthing the words to the song as she dances. While I don’t feel I’m yet dancing on par with the others, I’m beaming in class, just feeling the joy of the dance and of being here. She points to me at one point saying ‘you have a beautiful smile.’ Made my day. :-)

Experiencing the joy that is Randa

You haven't truly experienced belly dancing until you've seen an Egyptian dance.

My night begins with a bus full of dancers headed to the Nile for a dinner cruise aboard the Nile Maxim. Decending the steps from the road to the dock, we enter another world. A gaggle of musicians adorned in white galabaya and head wrap greet us and the festivities begin. Some of you are familiar with the Arabic moulid, (festival), or zeffet (the procession that preceeds a wedding party). This was it. Let the fun begin!! They play and we dance. It's the party before the party. We procession to the boat, horns wailing, drums beating, and as we approach some of the musicians start dancing and spinning. Quite a show.

The boat is luxurious, with carpeted floors, lovely lighting, a huge stained class window overhead and tables for 500 or more. A large stage. Our hostess, the amazing Sara, takes the microphone and announces a 'very special guest,' a dance legend, responsible for much that we belly dancers are today. The acolades go on and on. I think, no, it couldn't possibly be, it was. The legend herself, Nagua Fouad. I immediately start to cry and am teary again just thinking of it. She is absolutely beautiful and gracious. She patiently takes photos with many of us and later graces us with a short dance.


Immediately after dinner Randa Kamel takes the stage. I've seen many dancers and many I've adored, but none like this. It was the most emotional performance I've ever seen. We got crazy, like patrons at a Pat's game, cheering and begging for more. Here is a dancer who exudes passion and joy at the same time. She's a strong dancer, very strong and very sexy. Her stride is long and moves are big, yet she stays completely over her move every time. The audience was rivited. She does two shows, long shows, with two or three costume changes for each (I can't remember now...lots)! During the costume changes, singers are on stage entertaining us. Did I mention that Randa was backed by an 18 piece orchestra?


We return to the hotel around midnight, but much to emotionally charged to sleep. Sleep finally calls at 3:00. I'll be up again by 8:00 for my first day of classes with Randa.

Tahrir Square and the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities

This morning we're off to the Egyptian Museum to see the antiquities with our new guide, Eslem.
It's our fourth cab ride; we've emerged from our vehicular PTSD and acutally enjoy the craziness! Reading my blogs, you'd think that all I did was ride in cabs, but it's fascinating, plus, we see a lot of really cool stuff from the cab. Traffic etiquitte actually exists, I'm just not privy to it. Cab riding has become a fascinating part of Cairo life for me. Compared to this, driving Boston, New York, LA is child's play.


Once or twice each time we cab, we hear the telltale metallic 'crunch' of fenders kissing. Once we saw a driver wave to the other and continue on his way. Other times, drivers emerge, exchange angry words, shrug, then continue their separate ways. I guess there's no insurance here. Nevertheless, we've only seen one serious accident, so we somehow feel safer.


Our first stop is a 'quick' one, to pay for and get tickets for a flight to Luxor that we've booked. Here is how is goes: we're close to the location, our driver gets a little lost asks a few directions, then begins driving in reverse down a main street. Aurel and I laugh and laugh. I'm sure the drivers think WE'RE crazy! We get to the travel agency and it takes an hour or so to complete this transaction. We chat, the agent makes a few phone calls to get the details of our trip, we hear the call to prayer (five times a day) and I'm humming along, so the agent pulls it up on his computer and tells me the English translation, we inquire about his background, he asks about our trip, etc....It takes a while, but it's lovely. The Egyptian people are so friendly.


On to the museum which is on Tahrir Square. The Square doesn't look so big and we wonder about the sights we saw on TV. Maybe they used the same photograpers that photo the inside of sailboats or RV's. :-) All is quiet on the square. Some tents are set up in the middle. Today it looks more like Occupy Providence. We'll see what happens Tuesday.


The grounds of the museum are lovely. It's surrounded by small gardens and huge, ancient statues and we pass through a security checkpoint before entering. This is the first time I've seen armed guards carrying automatic weapons and I remember that the museum was damaged during the demonstrations last January. At one point, I think the demonstrators linked arms and formed a ring around the museum to protect it from hooligans.

Everything is different in Cairo and the museum is no exception. No cameras are allowed inside and that seems to be the only rule. The museum holds about 120,000 items, some dating back to 3100bc. Mind blowing. On the first floor I wander between gigantic statues and crypts decorated with heiroglyphics. Some are marked with dates and include information but many are not. There doesen't seem to be any security in the building and you can get as close to the antiquities as you like. I even saw people running their fingers over the heiroglyphics! There are signs posted here and there saying it's forbidden to touch, but not many signs. Standing right next to one of these crypts or statues, is a mind-blowing experience and remids me that our time on earth is short. So many amazing things have come before us. I wonder what those people thought? I know I'm waxing lyrical.....

After an hour it's upstairs to the Tutankhamun rooms where I hope to wrap my mind around this amazing collection of 1,700 pieces, some as teeny as carved figurines, others, well the size of a room. Yes, a room, gilded inside and out. Hundreds of tiny scarabs have messages carved on their undersides wishing for things like good fortune in the hunt; they remind me of tiny fortune cookies. Much of the jewelry and other artifacts could pass for new. They're that stylish and well preserved! Well, not the gold chariot, of course, I know it's not new. When's the last time you used one? Fodor's guidebook calls it 'living proof of the skillfulness of Egyptian artistry and the lavishness of the Egyptian civilization,' and they are so right.

We pass through Tahrir again on our way home and this time there's more activity. A big banner waves in the wind. Looks important, but I'm at a loss as to what it says. Vendors are set up along the road selling, what else, commemorative T-shirts! Happily, they're made in Egypt. At our urging, Eslam stops and blocks traffic so we can purchase two, black shirts proclaiming Freedom 2011, Egypt, with a fist and the words 25 January. I'm really moved, but then again, everything here is moving me.

Back to the hotel and time to ready for the Randa of Course opening gala cruise on the Nile Maxim, my first opportunity to see this famous dancer.

Going to the desert? Bring a coat.

Did I mention it was cold?

Shortly after arriving I called the front desk to report that he heat in my room wasn't working. It's about 64 degrees in here, a temperature that doesn't agree with me. Oh, says the receptionist, we don't have heat. Would you like a blanket? Um, no I wouldn't. I'm not going to bed, I'm sitting and typing at my computer.

The temp here is 60-ish during the day and pretty sunny, but drops rapidly as the sun gets low. What I learn is that Egyptian hotels are designed to keep the heat OUT, not in. Most of the year it's unbearably hot, so when it's cool they just 'add another blanket.' I'm quite a sight as I sit here blogging in my room with one or two scarves wrapped around my head, wearing warm, fuzzy socks and a couple of sweaters. I make quite a picture. So much for the desert!

All of my previous blogs took place during day one and I'm not exaggerating that we were up for 36 hours. Thursday night I went to bed at 2:00 a.m. and slept right through till Friday 4:00 p.m. Yippee!

Friday was pretty quiet... tried to get my head on straight (unsuccessful); We met with Sarah to set up a trip to Luxor then chatted with this remarkable woman for a couple of hours. We are lucky to have her as our liason her in Cairo. Dinner followed at 10 p.m., pretty funny...an Italian restaurant in our Egyptian hotel. More chatting with newfound friend Raqsanna of Chicago..then off to blog at midnight and getting to bed again at 2:00 a.m.

I'm much too excited to sleep, and tomorrow Aurel and I head off to the Museum of Antiquities for the day...and then...our first chance to see Randa Kamel herself!

Dinner at Naguib Mahfouz

Sara has suggested that while at Kahn al-Khalinie we dine at Naguib Mahfouz Restaurant, named for the Pulitzer Prize winning Egyptian author, so Karem, Aurel, Tamer and I thread our way through the alleys to find our way. Thankfully Kamer and Tamer are hungry and urge us along, past fantastical punched silver globe lights (have to have one) and caftans. Our mantra is: we're hungry, don't stop for anything.


We're new at this and I'm not quite sure how it will work...they are our guides, but do they also dine with us? If we dine alone, do they just twiddle their thumbs till we return? When we arrive at the restuarant, they ask what time we'd like them back. Problem solved.


Entering the restaurant I'm a bit taken aback as it looks like a movie set. Egyptian men and women are sitting around smoking sheesha and listening to a kanoun (harp-like instrument) and rig (tambourine-like drum). I'm not sure if this is a place for foreigners. I look around, smile, and everyone smiles back. Just then the matre'd welcomes us with open arms, and leads us to a beautifully decorated dining area. Elaborately engraved brass table-tops are set with beautiful table-ware and linens. Our waiter seats Aurel and I and we are in the lap of luxury. I try the stuffed pigeon (what the heck, when in Rome...) and Aurel orders a yummy stew served in a beautiful copper pot. Our waiter says the food will arrive in one hour. Huh? We've already been talking non-stop for 20 minutes - we're overwhelmed with sight and sound - and we told Tamr and Karem we'd be out in an hour. I look at the waiter shocked. Umm, an hour? I say. His eyes twinkle. Only a joke he replies, and chuckling walks away. We're finding that the Egyptians are incredible funny. We try to speak as many Egyptian words as wecan which they find hilarious...and then help us to learn more.


Dinner is wonderful and sometime after an hour, a tired and cold Kamel appears to nudge us along. We pay the bill, and begin exiting through the sheesha bar. Egyptians are smiling and clapping for us...we smile and clap back. Wait! Wait! says the kanoun play and begins playing a tune for us on the kanoun. I thought, Oh! I bet we'll hear an Om Kalthoum song. Instead, he plays Old MacDonald had a Farm. I'm laughing so hard I'm almost peeing myself. We clap and smile and bid them good-bye.


It's a long ride back to the hotel, but by now, after midnight and not so much traffic. Aurel and I have been up for 36 hours and I should go to bed but my mind is full and wild. This is quite a place.

The Magpie Snydrome

At the appointed time our driver, Tamr, fetches us and we're on our way.

Kahn al-Khalini is across town, not far, really, but it is rush hour, so it will take an hour, minimum. We quickly discover that 'riding the ring' this morning was child's play. Cars are squeezed together, seemingly helter skelter. We are at a dead stop for the longest time because cars in the extreme right lane are turning left...across three other lanes. At one point, two drivers emerge and begin yelling. Street theater. Another fellow leaves his car, settles these two down, and begins directing traffic himself. We move again.

In the midst of the mayhem donkey carts are driven down the road, weaving like every other vehicle. Scooters squeeze between cars if there is more than 24 inches. One driver edges forward, his burka-clad passenger on the back of the scooter. They pause next to us and I can hear them laughing and joking. It's all so incongruous. Throw in the wonderful license plates, written in beautiful Arab script and the plentiful mosques, minarets aglow with lights, and I feel like I'm in a scene from some movie.

We're unable to converse with Tamr, who speaks little English. After several attempts he makes a phone call then asks if it's okay for his English-speaking friend to join us. We hesitate. It's okay says Tamr, no charge for him. Ummmmm, well, okay. Nothing had been said about two men escorting us. We've gone off script.

We arrive to Khan al-Khalili a few minutes later and are introduced to Edward, an affable young man who speaks decent English. There's been a mis-understanding...we thought Tamr was to drop us off, then meet us again in three hours to take us back to the hotel. When we try to say good-bye to Tamr he becomes distressed. Edward explains that Tamr is responsible for us. If anything should happen, 'Sara will have his head.' Thank goodness for Sara! As it turns out, we are accompanied by two guardian angles.

Khan al-Khalini is a picture right out of the Arabian Nights. Alley after alley of tiny open-air shops laden with, well, everything. Hanging brass trays, small and large, brass tea sets, belly dance stuff, camels, King Tut replicas, scarabs and on and on and on. Shopkeepers commiserate with one another, waiting for clients, but sadly there are few tourists. I wonder why they're not hasseling us then realize that Karem has stationed himself in front of us and Tamer behind. I see them signal that we are not to be disturbed. We're on a mission -- to go to Mahmoud's shop, a mecca for belly dancers.

Many years ago a student said I had the Magpie Syndrome. What's that, I asked? You are hypnotically drawn to anything that glitters, she answered. Same as a magpie.

Her words come back to me as we enter Mahmoud's...three floors of everything belly dance. Aurel's and my eyes first bug out then glaze over. We've entered Nirvana. Jewelry, hip belts, swords, caftans, skirts, cholis, Saidi dresses, costumes and more. You name it, it's here. Good quality, too. Aurel is there to stock her store. I'm just looking today but begin thinking of recital costumes. I take lots of notes and will buy later.

Tamr and Karem are with Aurel the whole time, Tamr occasionally checking on me. They intepret and negotiate with the salesperson (Mahmoud himself isn't there) and have the patience of two saints, even helping with the shopping! Our plan is to spend an hour at Mahmoud's then head to Yassir's, another store. Instead, we are at Mahmoud's for almost three hours.

It's very late and in all the excitement we haven't eaten all day. Time for our first Egyptian meal.

You Haven't Lived Until You've Died a Thousand Deaths in an Egyptian Cab

Our NYC-Cairo flight went off without a hitch...We arrived an hour early. :-) The airport is devoid of the noisy, teeming throngs I had imagined. Tourism is sadly down, especially now, just before the anniversary of the advent of 'Arab Spring' (tomorrow, January 20th). It sort of reminds me of the anticipation of January 1, 2000, Y2-K. No one knew what to expect. From what I'm hearing here, Cairenes expect the same. Nothing noteworthy. They just not sure but want to get on with their lives.

We're met at the airport by Edward, an English-speaking Egyptian tour guide who immediately and confidently takes control of Aurel and I, helps with our luggage and guides us to a waiting van. It's taken Aurel and I a while to get our acts together after disembarking, we're a bit sleepy, and by the time Edward gets us to the the van the driver is snoozing in the front seat. :-) Edward wakes him and we're on our merry way.

"Merry," def: the most hair-raising ride of my life. I've heard about life on the Egyptian road, but really, until you've experienced it.... There are white lines separating the lanes, though I have no idea why. Our driver liked the white line, and therefore rode it. He created 5 lanes where there used to be four, while expertly weaving in and out of other vehicles. But really, not him, EVERYONE. There are no lanes! At times we were 5, 6, 7 wide. Older Rhode Islanders may remember the Dodg'ems at Rocky Point, bumper cars that rode in a circle, no rhyme or reason? This is driving in Cairo. But no bumpers and FAST. Cars manage to stay within inches of one another, I'm not kidding, front to back, side to side. We're on a highway called the 'ring' - it rings around the city - and suddenly , I spot a pedestrian crossing the road ahead. I'm beside myself and think it may be a suicide mission. No, Edward tells me. This is normal. Egyptian men think they are ... Superheroes? I ask, just as he replies Supermen. Yikes. Within minutes we pass may pedestrians who plan to do the same.

At the hotel we meet Sara Faraq, coordinator for the event and superhero in her own right. A frank, feisty woman who will help Aurel and I while we are in Cairo. Despite the long plane ride and little sleep we'd like to go shopping at the world's most famous bazaar, Kahn al -Khalili. Aurel need to make contacts for her store, Alimah's Closet, and me, well who can pass up a shopping experience. Sara arranges a driver to take us to Mohammed's, who has THREE, yes count 'em, three floors of belly dance merchandise, then to Yassir's, a belly dance costumer.

I barely have time to go to my room, unpack and grab a quick half-hour nap.

This is crazy, but I have to ask...Will you go to Egypt with me?

So began the email from my friend and fellow dancer, Aurel.

She wanted to study with world-famous dancer Randa Kamel and possibly add a day or two for sightseeing. My instinct...YES!! Traveling to Egypt had always been a dream, but kind of a faraway dream that I'd really never acted on. Here came opportunity knocking at my door in the form of Aurel and within a week we enrolled in 'Randa Kamel of Course,' six-days of workshops with the dancer herself.

I'm especially excited to work with one dancer. During my trip to the Turkish Delight Festival in 2010 I took classes with many dancers considered tops in their field. The prosepect of learning from one teacher really appeals to me, and my reaearch tells me that she is an exacting teacher at that.

Our trip goes in fits and starts. The day we plan to book our flights Egypt erupts in mass demonstrations against the Egyptian Government, which is currently run by the milatary. We don't know what is in store for Cairo, so we wait. The worst, we'll lose our $500 deposits. Later we begin to hear amazing things from people who currently live in or have recently travelled to Cairo. All is safe, the people are warm and welcoming. So, 18 days before our trip we make the commitment and book our flights, round-trips from JFK directly to Cairo. Knight-in-shining-armor, Bill Hague has offered to drive Aurel and I to JFK. An eight-hour round-trip for him means that he'll arrive back in RI two hours before we arrive in Cairo!