Luxor by Night

A cat nap is a little miracle, and after an hour’s sleep Aurel and I are again ready for fun. Outside the hotel our guide, Said, and driver Sasa await, but we need a hearty meal before we continue. No problem. (nothing we request is a problem) They leave us at Restaurant Sofra, hidden on a small side street, and promise to return in 2 hours.

Sofra’s foyer is small and unassuming, but upstairs we enter a terraced dining area that is of a bygone era with dark, carved furniture, copper lanterns and low, round brass tables. We’re seated near the open, curtained windows and for a while are the only patrons. Strains of Om Kalsoum waft over us and soon the diva sings alongside the muezzins’ calls to prayer. For the second time since arriving in Luxor I feel peaceful and happy.

The menu is extensive, featuring traditional Egyptian fare. We finally decide on a large sample mezza of four cold/four hot appetizers. Everything looks so good (or we’re so hungry) that we each also order a meal to follow. A Kanina and Aurel feast! No alcohol is served here, instead, we order ‘chai bil nana,’ tea with mint, and fresh squeezed juice. The night air is cool and soon, copper charcoal braziers are set up throughout the room to dispel the evening chill.

I peek through the curtains to the outside world when I notice, I kid you not, chickens living on the third floor of the building across the street. The building seems to be occupied because the windows on the lower floors have louvered shutters. But upstairs roost the chickens, lounging in empty windows and watching the world go by. One fluffy white guy with a huge plumed tail seems to be the head honcho. I dub it the Chicken Hotel and hope I’m not having one of these fellows for dinner. ;-) The incongruity of it all sets us laughing, a daily occurrence since we’ve arrived in Egypt.

Time passes too quickly, and we’re in some sort of food reverie, when Said pays a visit...it’s time to move along. The Temple of Luxor is open during the evening and that is our destination.

Earlier in the day Said mentioned several times that Luxor Temple at night was very special. I have visions of a touristy, Disney-esque light show so am not particularly enthused. The reality is completely different, though, and hard to capture in words.

The Avenue of Sphinxes leads to the temple in two long rows and at one time connected Luxor
and Karnak. Like Karnak’s ram-headed sphinxes, these also have sweet faces but they are human. When lit at night, they come to life as if they have a secret they might be inclined to divulge. The temple itself, with its two massive Ramsesses statues guarding the gate, is like a scene from an Indiana Jones movie. These huge statues, so impressive during the day, seem otherworldly now, as though the special lighting allows the pharaoh’s personality to emerge. A nearby sculpture, the head of Ramses I think, is ground-level and benignly gazes at me.

Our guide, Said, has an amazing capacity to succinctly convey a large amount of information then step back as we absorb the glory of what we are seeing. He encourages us to explore the temple on our own. Once inside, we wander through monolithic columns and statues and I stop taking photos. I simply cannot capture the majesty of what I am experiencing. Aurel and I also stop
speaking. There seem no appropriate words other than ‘O my god!’ or ‘Do you believe this?’

After a while Said collects us and it’s time to move on. Neither Aurel nor I realize he and Sasa have a big surprise for us.

When Up is Down...the Land of the Pharaohs

Our first stop of the day is the Temple of Karnak where our guide, Said, formally introduces himself as an Egyptologist. For two days he will be our eyes into both the ancient Pharonic world and the modern city of Luxor.

He begins by giving us the short version of ancient history and we immediately warm to his style. We’re not talking 200 years of American history here! Facts can be overwhelming when you’re summarizing 5,000 years, but Said captures it succinctly and makes it fascinating. I never feel as though he just reciting a generic ‘guide to Egypt’ speech.

Sadly, I’m sure he thinks Aurel and I a bit doltish. My eyes are glazing over from lack of sleep and we’re embarrassed to ask him to repeat information we were told just a few minutes ago. He tells of King Menes, the Scorpion King (and I thought it was just a kids movie), who united Upper and Lower Egypt in 3100 BC and mention that Luxor is in Upper Egypt. I'm confused...’So, we are North of Cairo? I ask...No, Luxor is South...Didn’t you just say Luxor is Upper Egypt?...Yes.’ As it turns out, ancient Egypt was defined by height not location. Upper Egypt is a plateau but in the South, whereas northern Egypt, the lowlands, is called Lower Egypt. Oh, and the Nile flows south to north.
Open any travel guide and Luxor is described as ‘the world’s largest open air museum’. We’re about to find out why.

As we drawer closer to the Temple of Karnak, Said tells us it spans 60 acres. First constructed around 1700BC, it was enlarged by 30 pharaoh’s during their reigns. Thankfully for us, only a few acres are open to the public.

We approach through an amazing array of ram-headed sphinx, lined up one after another in regal grandeur, their faces the benign splendor of royal elegance. I can only imagine the swelling emotions of the nobility as they prepared to enter this religious temple thousands of years ago.

Once inside, we are dwarfed. Forty-foot high walls are completely covered in hieroglyphics and pictographs, the artwork rivaling any contemporary museum experience. In the Great Hypostyle Hall we wander through massive columns, more than a hundred in all commissioned by the masterful Queen Hatchupset, that leave us speechless. Huge statues of ancient rulers some carved from a single limestone piece, grace the interior, while hundred foot tall obelisks carved top to bottom still stand, a testament to engineering and art.

I’m trying to imagine the pageantry that would have taken place here, but honestly, am have difficulty grasping it all. Try this link to experience it yourself http://www.panoramas.dk/fullscreen7/f22-karnak-egypt.html

Exiting the temple, Said looks at our tired eyes and suggests that rather than going to our next destination, the Temple at Luxor, we check into our hotel and have an hour’s sleep. He graciously offers to drop us at the hotel then pick us up in two hours to continue our adventure. We gratefully accept. The beds at El-Luxor Hotel look positively inviting and sleep beckons.

Lush, Lovely Luxor

I’ve just closed my eyes, or so it seems, when the wake-up call jars me into consciousness. 90 minutes sleep passes pretty quickly. Bags were packed last night and after a refreshing shower it’s off to the airport for our flight to Luxor. Surprise of surprises at 6:30 a.m. there’s no Cairo traffic!

Once in the airport I’m a bit panicky. We’re completely on our own for the first time with no guide to lead us along like a willing school children. Life has been so hectic that I’m not really sure I’ve taken the correct documents, and the airport is a bit confusing. We find our way, though, and soon we’re in flight and sound asleep.

The approach to Luxor, as was the approach to Cairo is quite amazing. The desert below, a peaceful beige that stretches forever, is suddenly interrupted by a swath of green. The color doesn’t appear a bit at a time, like you’d expect. Desert simply ends and fertile valley begins.

Luxor, the ancient capital city known as Thebes, is BEAUTIFUL and quite literally, a breath of fresh air after being in Cairo. Palm trees stretch toward a clear, clean, blue sky and the sun shines brightly. Again and again I inhale deep gulps of refreshingly clean air. Within minutes I’m relaxed, rejuvenated and just plain happy. For the first time in Egypt I feel as though I’m on vacation.

Aurel and I are ravenously hungry and need some food. Quickly. I had only picked at my dinner the previous evening (was that just 12 hours ago??) and I don’t think Aurel ate at all. After puzzling for a moment our driver asks if we like Shwarma. We love shwarma, even for breakfast, and we’re whisked off to the Snak Time Fast Food Café.

I’m giggling as soon as I see Snak Time and have visions of eating my first Luxor meal at an Egyptian McDonalds. Instead, the place is immaculately clean and after ordering we’re directed to the fourth floor where we take a balcony table overlooking Luxor’s main street and the ancient Temple at Luxor. For the longest time we sit and try to absorb the beauty and significance of what we’re seeing.

Luxor, quaint, clean and orderly, reminds me a bit of an Arabian Burmuda. Festive horse-drawn carriages clip-clop down a main street that is so quiet the hoof beats echo. Across from us men in traditional garb of galabaya and turbans and women in hijab socialize or relax in a lovely park. One fellow so attired is propped against a palm tree, resting on the grass and chatting on his cell phone. Then, out of the silence, the hauntingly beautiful call to prayer. Juxtapositions abound.

Beyond the park, walking distance from the main street, lies the grand Temple of Luxor, built 3,500 years ago. To our right is the modern town of Luxor. Throughout our trip I’m surprised to see ancient and modern existing side by side.

Our guide for the weekend, Said, appears and introduces himself... and we’re off for our next adventure.

Let the Birthday Season Begin! Performing in Cairo

Aurel and I have just three hours to prepare for our show…and it takes me at least one hour to apply my stage make-up. In addition, Aurel has an appointment with Randa’s personal hairdresser! Instead of hustling off to our rooms like we should, we shop.

There are four vendors at the Course and I’ve been eyeing their costumes all week, keeping student requests in mind. Aurel, who makes any costume look spectacular, graciously offers to model the ones I‘m most interested in. By the time we finish, I’ve chosen six and will meet with the designer when we return from Luxor.

By 8:00 we’re in the ballroom, and you can feel the excitement as the stege lights come alive and seven musicians on stage tune their instruments. We dancers are all jittery and encouraging one another. There will be three shows this evening, starting with the last heat of the dance competition which features seven dancers. Each dancer has submitted a list of ten songs, and the band will choose one for her performance. They are all accomplished, beautiful dancers, but I can’t imagine the stress they are feeling!

I’m leading off the second show, which I’m really grateful for. Once I’ve danced I can relax and enjoy the rest of the evening. Aurel is in the third show and won’t dance till about 11:00.
The festivities begin with a drawing for a costume created by the wonderfully innovative and creative designer, Hisham Ozaki, whose costumes remind me of David Bowie meets Cairo. They’re really fanciful and new age. All of us who are brave enough to perform have been entered into the raffle. Suspense builds as Sara spells out the winner’s name…K…A….I can’t believe my name has been called and just sit in my seat till it’s called again! After much applause, hugs from Randa and Hisham, and picture taking I return to my seat thinking…my birthday is in just a few hours, let the party begin!!

The dance competition is amazing, and I am in awe of these beautifully talented dancers. In no time, it’s my turn my turn to dance, and as always, when the music begins my jitters evaporate. The music is GREAT and when I hit the stage I’m immediately enjoying myself. I can’t believe I’m in Cairo dancing live with an Egyptian band; it’s like a dream. The audience is very supportive, though I can feel not see them -- the stage lights are blinding.

The band is playing one of my favorites, Sawwah. I have three versions on my iPod so am prepared for each but I’m expecting the Sohair Zaki version (old Egyptian) with a solo vocal piece midway through the song. I’m concerned about the vocals because Egyptian ‘style’ doesn’t really use the beautiful snaky arm movements I favor. But I’ve planned some Randa moves before the solo, so I hope to appear sufficiently Egyptian. About a minute into the show, our wonderful singer, Samir, begins an extra-long and slow solo. OMG. The special Randa-like moves I’ve been practicing go out the window and I do what we performers must always do, dance what is second-nature to us. For me, not especially Egyptian, but LOTS of fun. I love working with live music -- the show is always a surprise and I am transported by the passion of the moment.

Now it’s time for me to relax and enjoy the rest of the evening. I’m eager to see Aurel’s performance, in which she’ll be dancing and singing Batwannis Beek. She doesn’t disappoint, in fact she steals the show. The audience goes wild as she begins singing and her dancing is perfect. I’m videoing and standing behind Randa’s table and I can hear her and her guests yelling “Aiwa!!” (YES!!) I am so proud to be her friend.

The evening winds down and we are each called for a photo op with Randa as we receive our Course certificates. When my name is called, she gives a big hug and signals the band to play happy birthday. Everyone sings, first in English, then Arabic. Wow, it’s going to be a good year.

Aurel and I are much to excited to sleep, and my lights finally go out at 3:00. My bags are packed and I’ll get 90 minutes rest before we head to the airport for our flight to Luxor.

The Agony of Defeat...The Thrill of Victory

Randa arrives to class today refreshed and looking like it’s the first class of the week. She’s excited to teach us a new choreography she’s been working on.

For some reason, energy in the class is really low. Many of the dancers went to the disco last night, so that might account for it, but I have no excuse. I didn’t leave my room, but I didn‘t get to bed before 2:00 a.m. either.. It’s a wonderful choreography but mind numbingly filled with turns and counter-turns and is very, very fast. I’m lost. Immediately. Sadly for Randa but happily for me, many of my fellow dancers are too, even though she patiently repeats the combinations. I finally throw the towel in and watch while taking notes. I’m really tired at the end of the day and further discouraged to hear Randa say we’ll work on it again tomorrow. Ugh.

Aurel and I hook up with new friends Sheila from NYC and Grace from Mexico City for dinner at our new favorite restaurant, Maguib Mahfouz in Khan el Khalili -- pronounce: hen hell-e-ly, with the gutteral ‘H‘. We’ve decided that this will be a really early night for us so we can get some much needed sleep. Our hotel is in Giza, about 20 minutes outside of Cairo, but in traffic a one-hour ride. And there is ALWAYS traffic and lots of it. Our dinner is delicious and company good, but once again we return to the hotel after midnight so it’s another 2:00 a.m. night.

I dread class in the morning and another day of the ‘new routine,’ but don’t dare skip.

Randa arrives smiling and full of energy and with a new plan. She starts from the very beginning of the routine and breaks down every single combination. Over and over again we run through the steps till we do them correctly. She simply will not give up on us. Suddenly, this challenging choreography has become really fun.

Earlier in the week, an afternoon that class size looked a little sparse, Randa pointed out that this is a ‘course’ not a dance festival. It’s work and fun, but lots of work. She expects us to behave professionally, attend every class in a timely manner and not talk in class (seems to be a problem for some). Hers and our commitment to the classes is bearing fruit today, and by 5:00 when our week with Randa comes to an end I know I‘ve been through something extraordinary.

Having said that, I’m not at all looking forward to my performance with the band this evening. My dance style is completely different from the modern Egyptian style I am studying, where there are no zils, few soft arm movement and a different way of shimmying. It’s like dancing with my hands tied behind my back. To make matters worse, most of the dancers have studied with Randa before, or are at least very familiar with the Egyptian style. I feel like a duck out of water.

I’ve been toying with the idea of backing out of the show, but finally talk myself into hanging in. After all, I may never have the chance to dance in Cairo with a six-piece Egyptian band again. In my spare time - usually the 1 a.m. hour - I’ve worked on some of the new steps I’ve learned this week and plan to use them in my show, sort of a tip of the hat to Randa. Other than that, I’ll just do my dance and try to enjoy myself. In just three hours I’ll find out!

Partying at Ezba

Today we’re away from the rigors of class and are spending a ‘Day with Randa,’ a field trip to a resort called Ezba on the outskirts of Cairo near Saqqara. I’m grateful that the bus won’t leave till noon and am looking forward to a quiet night’s sleep with no early-morning wake-up call. Unfortunately I underestimate how tired I am. The phone rings me out of a dead sleep…it‘s Aurel wanting to know where I am because the bus is leaving! I‘m so deep in sleep I can hardly understand what she‘s saying and insist that they go along without me.

After a few minutes I realize what I’ve done and place a frantic call to Sara Farouk, our genius organizer and mother hen. If she’ll arrange a driver for me, I can take a cab and meet them at Ezba. She does, and in a short while (and still looking sleepy) I’m on my way.

My driver, Fayiz, speaks English well and tells me he was a career merchant marine. He’s traveled all over the world and visited most of its ports, but his favorite place is….Texas! Well I’ll be. He points out the many unfinished buildings that line the streets and tells me that building owners don’t have to pay tax on their buildings till they’re complete. So, even though they’re currently occupied they may be missing a wall or roof. I’ve noticed these buildings everywhere, occupied but with rebar sticking out the top like an unruly head of hair.

When I arrive the party is in full swing. What a sight! I enter the compound, a small cleanly resort and feel I’ve just stepped back into the 1800’s. Off to my left is a fire and a woman baking bread. A darling little girl in traditional garb carries her goat. For a little baksheesh (tips) I can hold him while our picture is taken. For only 20 Egyptian pounds, about $3.50, a camel-driver dressed in a galabaya (traditional men’s garb that looks like a long dress) takes willing dancers for a ride on his gaily decorated camel. We find out later that if you refuse to pay, he’ll take you anyway. Three musicians in fez hats with doumbec (drum), oud (pot-bellied string instrument) and violin roam from table to table playing lively music for the guests who can’t help but dance. I’m warmly greeted by Randa herself and thank her for her hospitality. Her warmth and good humor are contagious.

I find Aurel and off we head to the camel-guy who leads us around the compound on, who else, Ramses the camel. Ramses is a handsome fellow who seems to wear a perpetual smile. He’s bedecked in colorful blankets with red, turquoise and yellow geometric designs, and a saddle replete with tassels and pom-poms. There’s obviously great warmth between the two and when the guy puts Ramses in a head-lock and rubs his ears the camel doesn’t seem to mind at all.

We are taken for a long camel ride, very long compared to the five minutes the other guests get. First me, then Aurel, then Aurel and I together. The guide lets us feed Ramses and takes many photos of us. I suspect that we’ve overpaid him (which turns out to be true) but don’t mind. For a mere $3 each, we’ve had a ball.

Next we’re treated to a performance by the Palmyra folk dance company. The beautiful young women are alternately coy and strong as they dance alongside the men who energetically bend to the floor and leap into the air. Their costumes are colorful, and the choreography and staging interesting, with each dance telling a story of some kind. The highlight of the show is a dervish danced by a woman. I am unaware that women danced the dervish. She is remarkable in her spinning which easily lasts 20 minutes. Her dancing is very emotional as she silently sings along with the sacred song, her face bearing the joy or sorrow of each phrase. I find myself drawn into her emotional sphere, like the planets to the sun as she turns and turns. She also turns in a way I would’ve thought impossible, at one point bending from the waist and continuing her turns as she faces the floor. Her incredible performance is the highlight of the show.

Lunch follows as we head en-masse to another large roofed area, the outdoor restaurant. A feast of traditional foods beautifully arranged in a buffet greets us. We’re hungry and fill our plates before grabbing a seat. An ancient looking, decorated brass ‘hot-box’ filled with coals is placed on each table, a food warmer of sorts that is topped with various shish-kabob. More music follows, this time by three gents in traditional garb who look like they’ve just stepped out of National Geographic to join us. One plays a rababah, a Bedouin one string instrument played with a bow, another a nye (reed flute) and the third a doumbek. We’re torn between eating and dancing and soon the party is in full swing again. Some of the guys are dancing on their chairs waving money. The musicians roam from table to table and for 10 EP will sing your name….Kanina…Kanina…Kaniiiiinaaaa.

The party ends with a group photo by our resident photographer, Tracy, and tired but happy dancers we head home, chatting with new friends along the way.